Before you start
First, make sure the pads need replacing and check for any other work needed. Our guide to brake pad wear and replacement signs explains what to look for.
Get the service instructions for your exact vehicle, along with the fitting instructions supplied with the pads. Two cars that look much the same can have different brake setups.
This job needs the right tools and a good understanding of brake work. If you’re not confident carrying it out, have a qualified technician do the fitting. You can still use this guide to understand the job and what’s included.
An electronic parking brake may need diagnostic equipment and a service mode before you start. Don’t try to force the mechanism back with an ordinary clamp.
Tools and parts to have ready
Start with the correct pad set for the axle, plus any replacement hardware and wear sensors required.
You’ll usually need:
- A suitable jack, rated axle stands and wheel chocks.
- The correct sockets, spanners and a torque wrench.
- A piston retraction or rewind tool that suits the calliper.
- A secure support for the calliper.
- Approved cleaning products and clean cloths.
- The specified brake lubricant, if required.
- Suitable inspection and measuring tools.
- Diagnostic equipment if the vehicle requires it.
Use lubricant that’s approved for the parts involved, including any rubber components. Apply it only where the fitting instructions specify. More grease isn’t better, and none belongs on the pad or rotor friction surfaces.
How to change brake pads
These steps explain the general process. Your vehicle’s service instructions provide the exact removal sequence, parking brake procedure, replacement hardware and torque settings.
Replace the pads as a matched set across the axle, so both front wheels or both rear wheels are done together.
1. Prepare and support the vehicle
Park on firm, level ground, secure the vehicle and let the brakes cool.
Follow the correct lifting procedure, chock the wheels as directed and position rated axle stands at the approved support points before removing the wheels. Never rely on the jack alone.
Check the parking brake instructions before starting rear brake work. You may need to release it or put an electronic system into service mode, which changes how the vehicle needs securing.
2. Check the pads and surrounding parts
Inspect the inner and outer pads for wear, damage and contamination. Check the rotors, calliper movement, rubber boots, hoses and any signs of leaking fluid.
If one pad has worn much faster than another, find out why. Fitting new pads without sorting a sticking calliper or another fault can leave you with the same problem again.
Our guide to checking brake rotors explains the disc inspection and measurements.
3. Remove the old pads
Take note of where the pads, clips, shims and sensors sit before removing them. A few clear photos can help you keep track, alongside the fitting instructions.
Remove the calliper fasteners or pad retainers in the order specified for your brakes.
If the calliper needs moving out of the way, support it securely. Don’t let its weight hang from the brake hose, and keep your foot off the brake pedal while the assembly is apart.
4. Move the pistons back correctly
New pads are thicker than worn ones, so the calliper pistons need retracting to make room.
Some push straight back. Others need winding back or an electronic service procedure. Use the right tool and method for the job. If something won’t move as expected, stop and check the cause rather than forcing it.
Watch the brake fluid reservoir as you work. Retracting the pistons can raise the fluid level, so prevent overflow and protect painted surfaces. Follow the vehicle instructions for any fluid handling required.
5. Clean and check the hardware
Clean the areas where the pads sit, then inspect the guides, clips, shims and rubber boots. Replace anything required by the fitting instructions.
Apply approved lubricant only in the specified places. Keep grease and oil off the braking surfaces, and don’t blow brake dust around with compressed air.
The new pads need to sit properly and move freely as intended within their mounts.
6. Fit the new brake pads
Double-check the part number and pad positions before fitting them. Some pads are directional, and inner and outer pads can differ.
Fit the clips, springs, shims and sensors in their correct positions. Refit the calliper and tighten its fasteners to the specified torque with a torque wrench.
Replace single-use fasteners where required. Don’t guess the torque by feel.
Complete the work on the other wheel of the axle.
7. Restore brake operation and check your work
Refit the wheels using the correct tightening sequence and torque settings.
Check the brake fluid level according to the vehicle instructions. If fluid is needed, use the exact specification required.
With the vehicle stationary, restore the normal brake pedal position before moving it. Complete any electronic parking brake resets, service-mode exit or calibration required.
The pedal needs to feel normal and stable. Leaks, unusual pedal travel or unresolved warning lights need sorting before driving.
8. Follow the bedding-in instructions
Bedding in helps the new pads establish proper contact with the rotor surfaces.
Follow the instructions supplied with the actual pads and rotors fitted. There’s no single number of stops, speed or distance that suits every product.
Complete the required operating checks first, then carry out bedding in somewhere appropriate and safe.
How long does it take to change brake pads?
For an experienced technician, a straightforward pad-only change can take around 30 minutes to an hour per axle. Seized bolts, sticking components, electronic parking brake requirements or rotor work can all add time.
That’s a rough estimate of the work itself. It doesn’t mean the workshop will have your car ready to collect within the hour.
If you’re asking how long does it take to replace brake pads because you need to organise your day, check the full booking time with the workshop. Ask if the quote includes inspection, any extra work and the final operating checks.
Doing the job at home for the first time? Allow plenty of time. There’s no benefit in rushing brake work to match an experienced mechanic’s pace.
Do you have to bleed the brakes when changing pads?
Not automatically on a conventional brake system.
Bleeding removes air from the hydraulic circuit. During a straightforward pad change, that circuit can stay closed, so replacing the pads alone doesn’t necessarily introduce air.
Disconnecting a brake line, opening a bleed screw, replacing a hydraulic component or letting the reservoir run empty changes the situation. Follow the exact service procedure to establish the bleeding requirements for the job.
If the pedal feels soft afterwards, find out why before driving. Air is one possible cause, but leaks, incorrect assembly and component faults also need checking.
Brake fluid replacement is a separate maintenance job. New pads don’t restart the clock on the fluid’s service interval.
